Do reports on diversity in fashion really work?

0
6
<p class = "web-atom canvas-text Mb (1.0em) Mb (0) – sm Mt (0.8em) – sm" type = "text" content = "As Fashion Month Within a few centimeters, designers, casting directors and editors take stock of the current position of the industry on current topics. Have we become more inclusive? Exclusive? Who is the last Queen of sustainability? King? The biannual fashion challenge, which has lasted four weeks, has become more and more political, and for good reason, but there is a lot to be done at the same time. "Data-reactid =" 12 "> As Fashion Month gets closer and closer, designers, casting directors, editors take stock of the current position of the industry on topics of interest. news.We have become more inclusive? exclusive? Who is the last queen of sustainability? King? The bi-annual fashion challenge, held every two weeks, has become increasingly political and for good reasons, but it's a lot to take at one time.

<p class = "canvas-atom-text-canvas Mb (1.0em) Mb (0) – sm Mt (0.8em) – sm" type = "text" content = "Earlier this week, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (a non-profit organization dedicated to the revitalization, support and promotion of American fashion) published a report on diversity entitled "Insider / Outsider, "which includes surveys, quotes from industry figures and an open path to positive change". data-reactid = "13"> Earlier this week, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (a non-profit organization dedicated to revitalizing, supporting and promoting American fashion) released a diversity report titled "Insider / Outsider", which includes surveys. , quotes from industry personalities and an open path to positive change.

On 14 pages, their findings conclude to many things that we already know, such as the fact that inclusion and diversity are inextricably linked, that change must also occur off the track and that the majority of companies fashion do not engage minorities. in high-stakes roles, such as the black community, women and LGTBQ + people (whom the CFDA calls "outsiders"). So, as we begin another month of thin, whitewashed runs, we need to ask if such reports really work – and if, when the time comes for model casting in New York, London, Paris and Milan, we will witness a revolutionary change.

"We are witnessing a long-overdue change of fashion, where people at all levels of the industry are becoming more aware of the need for inclusion and diversity," said Steven Kolb, President and CEO of CFDA. , in the report. "As an organization, we listen and collaborate with our designers on topics that interest them personally and professionally. We are determined to achieve this, both as the governing body of American fashion and as an employer with a mission to create a diverse, inclusive and equitable sector. "

<p class = "canvas-canvas-text canvas Mb (1.0em) Mb (0) – sm Mt (0.8em) – sm" type = "text" content = "While this is true, in addition to other initiatives such as his health memo and his guidelines for security and protection of models As a result of the # MeToo move, the CFDA's argument that the mode change is "long overdue" no longer has as much weight as in 2017 or before. Because, at this point, we have witnessed what changes in the night look like in other sectors and cultures. we saw articles, imagery, and steps break the internet. Journalists are trained to break the internet – a Pulitzer-level achievement for digital media (think: the Weber, the Testino, and Richardson moments). So, in this sense, it is the designers, the casting directors and the fashion leaders who resist this change who are really outside. "Data-reactid =" 16 "> While this is true, in addition to other initiatives such as its health memo and its guidelines for safety and protection of models as a result of the #MeToo movement , CFDA's argument that the mode change is "long overdue" does not have as much weight as it was in 2017 or before., at this point We witnessed that one day in the aftermath of changes in other sectors and cultures, we saw articles, images and parades breaking the Internet. Journalists are trained to break the Internet, a Pulitzer level achievement for digital media (think: Weber, Testino and Richardson moments) So, in this sense, it is the designers, casting directors and fashion leaders who are resisting this change who are truly at the heart of the game. 'outside.

Candice Huffine goes to the 2019 Spring Show of Prabal Gurung at NYFW. Photo: Pietro D'aprano / FilmMagic.

More

<p class = "canvas-atom canvas-text Mb (1.0em) Mb (0) – sm Mt (0.8em) – sm" type = "text" content = "In addition to the conclusions of the CFDA, editorial platform theFashionSpot publishes a more detailed diversity report each season for leads and ad campaigns. Each season, the FashionSpot calculates the number of different color models, plus / minus models, gender models, age, and abilities that have traveled the podiums of New York, Paris, London, and Milan, and compares the data to the season (s). ) before. Between spring 2015 and spring 2019, the percentage of color models on the runways combined increased by 19%, from 17% to 36%. Yet the title "[Insert Season Here] Was The Most Diverse Ever "succeeds in replacing any semblance of real and lasting progress.This means we applaud those who even hire just one or two more black or trans models than the previous season, reaching a new – and arbitrary – bar of "already"." data-reactid = "28"> In addition to the findings of the CFDA, theFashionSpot editorial platform publishes a more in-depth report each season on diversity, for tracks and advertising campaigns. Each season, the FashionSpot calculates the number of different color models, plus / minus models, gender models, age, and abilities that have traveled the podiums of New York, Paris, London, and Milan, and compares the data to the season (s). ) before. Between spring 2015 and spring 2019, the percentage of color models on the runways combined increased by 19%, from 17% to 36%. Yet the title "[Insert Season Here] Was The Most Diverse Ever "succeeds in replacing any semblance of real and lasting progress.This means we applaud those who even hire just one or two more black or trans models than the previous season, reaching a new – and arbitrary – bar of "already".

<p class = "canvas-atom canvas-text Mb (1.0em) Mb (0) – sm Mt (0.8em) – sm" type = "text" content = "Our barometers of progress and success are wrong. of praise as Prada for the Sudanese model casting Anok Yai for being the first black model to open their show in 20 years. And Louis Vuitton for having Californian Janaye Furman Open her 2018 spring show, the first time that a black woman has opened a parade in her 163 years of history. Last year, we praised the fact that each run of the NYFW had at least two color patterns on ittwo, in a sea of ​​dozens of white women. And we applauded Karl Lagerfeld for the sudano-australian model casting Adut Akech as a second black model, already, to close a high fashion show Chanel (as a legendary bride of Chanel), following Alek Wek in 2004. "data-reactid =" 29 "> Our barometers of progress and success are wrong We rent brands like Prada for choosing the Sudanese model Anok Yai for being the first black model to open her salon in 20 years And Louis Vuitton for In California, at the opening of her show in the spring of 2018, the Californian Janaye Furman was the first time that a black woman was opening a parade of her story in 163 years, and we had praised the fact that each NYFW runway had at least two color models – two, in a sea of ​​dozens of white women. And we congratulated Karl Lagerfeld for presenting the Manitoba-Sudanese model Adut Akech as the second black model. already, to close a high fashion show Chanel (as a legendary bride of Chanel), after Alek Wek in 2004.

The story continues

<p class = "canvas-atom canvas-text Mb (1.0em) Mb (0) – sm Mt (0.8em) – sm" type = "text" content = "We do the same thing when it comes to tokenising curvy models too Candice Huffine, Ashley Graham, Paloma Elsesser, and trans or non-binary models, such as Teddy Quinlivan, Hunter Schafer, and Oslo Graceand different models like Aaron Philips and Jillian Mercado. But, with the exception of Graham, where are their campaigns? Their advertisements? Their endorsements? "Data-reactid =" 34 "> We do the same for curved models like Candice Huffine, Ashley Graham, Paloma Elsesser, and trans and non-binary models like Teddy Quinlivan, Hunter Schafer and Oslo Grace, as well as models. with different abilities like Aaron Philips and Jillian Mercado, but with the exception of Graham, what are their campaigns, their ads, their sponsorships, their covers of fashion magazines?

Cacsmy Brutus hosts the Chromat Spring 2019 show at NYFW. Photo: Victor VIRGIL / Gamma-Rapho / Getty Images.

More

<p class = "canvas-atom canvas-text Mb (1.0em) Mb (0) – sm Mt (0.8em) – sm" type = "text" content = "That more varied models walk on the tracks no matter how you look at it, but it's it's still not enough. Improvements should not be overlooked, nor should reports like these be taken for granted. "Data-reactid =" 46 "> The fact that more diversified models are on the catwalk is a progress, no matter how you look at it, but it's still not enough. Improvements should not be neglected, nor should reports like these be taken for granted.

<p class = "canvas-atom-canvas-text Mb (1.0em) Mb (0) – sm Mt (0.8em) – sm" type = "text" content = "So apart from these reports on diversity or Prada dietwhat will it take to tip the scales in favor of the inclusion the CFDA is talking about and to move away from old-fashioned and alienating ideals? Stop talking and walking? Change must come from within; not from the ground, but from the top down. A pre-forum questionnaire included in the CFDA report sent to 50 senior executives from more than 30 fashion companies revealed that 36% of respondents ranked 3 out of 5 to assess how diverse groups feel able to bring their full potential. contribution, including 62% of respondents who assigned the same score with respect to their organization's commitment to an inclusive workplace. "Data-reactid =" 47 "> So, apart from these reports on diversity or Diet Prada, what's going to take to tip the scales toward the inclusion the CFDA talks about and s & # To move away from old-fashioned and alienating ideals? Stop talking and walking, change must come from within, not from bottom to top, but from top to bottom A pre-forum questionnaire included in the report of the CFDA sent out to 50 senior executives from over 30 fashion companies showed that 36% of respondents scored 3 out of 5 in terms of assessing the degree of diversity groups feel able to make their full contribution , including 62% of respondents who scored the same on their organization's commitment to an inclusive workplace.

Without the new CFDA "Insider / Outsider" report, we would not have these data – nor the associate dean of Parsons, from the Jason Kass styling school, summing up the data in one sentence: "C & Is the right thing to do. "But if a report on diversity is published on the Internet and no decision maker reads it or takes it to heart, does not it make any noise? In a previous season, we might have told you "time will tell," but the time has come.

<p class = "canvas-atom canvas-text Mb (1.0em) Mb (0) – sm Mt (0.8em) – sm" type = "text" content = "Love what you see? How about more goodness R29, right here?"data-reactid =" 49 ">Love what you see? How about more goodness R29, right here?

<p class = "canvas-atom canvas-text Mb (1.0em) Mb (0) – sm Mt (0.8em) – sm" type = "text" content = "Moschino had a code word for Black Shoppers – & amp; This leads to a bigger problem"data-reactid =" 50 "> Moschino had a code word for Black Shoppers – and this leads to a bigger problem

<p class = "canvas-atom canvas-text Mb (1.0em) Mb (0) – sm Mt (0.8em) – sm" type = "text" content = "Gucci gives Dapper Dan the treatment of book on coffee table"data-reactid =" 51 "> Gucci gives Dapper Dan tablebook processing

<p class = "canvas-atom canvas-text Mb (1.0em) Mb (0) – sm Mt (0.8em) – sm" type = "text" content = "The real story behind Simply Halston, Your new favorite TV series"data-reactid =" 52 "> The real story behind Simply Halston, Your new favorite TV series